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Apply very light torque while energetically moving the sawtooth rake in and out of the keyway. Develop a light touch. There is a tradeoff, of course, since a longer handle may be difficult to maneuver around obstacles. The LAB picks can comfortably maneuver around even very tight keyways, and are among my personal favorites. Right: With all of the cuts at the shear line, the plug can rotate freely within the shell. Note the border between the plug and shell, which forms the shear line, and the cuts in each pin stack resting within the plug. The plug/shell border is called the shear line. The plug can rotate freely only if the key lifts every pin stack's cut to align at the border between the plug and shell. Much of this is simply a matter of individual preference, but certain choices here can also have an impact on performance. Torque tools may be oriented vertically (with the handle in line with the keyway) or horizontally (with the handle perpendicular to the keyway); different people have different preferences.

The proper pick and torque tool selection depend on the shape of the keyway, the features of the lock, the picking technique, and the individual preferences of the user. You will need a small set of cylinders in various keyways, a board or vice to hold them in while you practice, and a small re-pinning kit (extra pins and springs and a "follower" tool). Each board is labeled with its keyway, and each lock cylinder on a board is labeled with the number of installed pin stacks (from one to six) and the keying code for its pinning. One of them should feel springy, just as it did with no torque applied. If both feel springy, you're not applying enough torque (which is unlikely). In particular, you should feel when you set a pin as much in the torque tool as you do in the pick. The selection of the torque tool is just as important as that of the pick, but, again, commercial pick kits often fail to include a sufficient range of sizes and designs to allow good control and feel across the range of common locks. LAB is a lock pin and locksmith tool manufacturer.

A variety of picking tools are available through most locksmith supply distributors. Most of the esoteric pick designs in the huge, overpriced sets you see on the web and from locksmith suppliers are useless, and eventually end up being discarded in favor of the basic hooks. Their security ranges from being quite rudimentary to being among the most formidable locks in commercial use. The Peterson picks are more sturdy, at the expense of being bulkier (but they still fit easily in many of the keyways you'll be picking). This keyway is more "open" than the Arrow, and there aren't really any "platforms" on which to pivot your pick. The height (or cut depth) of a key under each pin stack position is called its bitting; the bitting of a key is the "secret" needed to open a lock. These imperfections are very small -- as little as .0001 inches in some cases -- but they are what allow us to manipulate ("pick") locks open without using the correct key. While there are literally thousands of different keyways in commercial use in the United States and thousands more abroad, these four give a fairly representative sample of the different kinds of wardings (and pin manipulation problems) you are likely to encounter in common (non-high-security) locks.

These locks are specially pinned to facilitate a more step-by-step approach. However, your efforts un-pinning and re-pinning locks will be time well spent -- you will progress much faster than you would if you tried to start out picking fully pinned cylinders. However, it is worth experimenting with different rakes and raking techniques to find one or two that work well for you. However, the design of the cylinder requires the use of special tools to manipulate the pins and apply torque. The fourth pick is a "rake" of a long sawtooth design (the "Ripple"). The shape of the tip is the most obvious difference between picking tools, with hooks, half-diamond, ball, double ball, wave, sawtooth and other styles available. Some wafter lock cylinders (especially certain Chicago-brand locks) are double bitted, with some wafers making contact with the key at the top of the keyway and others at the bottom. It's hard to learn these skills all at once on off-the-shelf commercial locks, but that's what many people who try to learn lock picking end up doing (before giving up in frustration). For most locks, especially as you're starting out, a workable compromise is often the smaller Peterson hook. This pick is a Peterson "Hook" with a plastic handle.

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